In the Patheon of fine dining, New York City ranks amongst the highest of global cities, for who can compete with the breadth and depth of our fabulous offerings? From alto Italiano offerings like Del Posto to sushi-dens like Sushi Yasuda, New Yorkers have an embarrassment of riches, which makes the arrival and success of Gabriel Kreuther – one of the most delicious and innovative spots I’ve eaten in years – even more newsworthy and exciting for those in need (or in want) of haute cuisine. Helmed by The Modern’s ex-chef and bearing his name, the restaurant is a temple to the cookery of modern French cuisine.
Over nine stunning courses, my guest and I were treated to a wonderment of food; here, it’s okay to feel like a glutton. But before I lay out each course (or at least attempt to with my limited skillset), mention must be made of the dining room and bar. Clearly, much attention was paid to detail. Each table offered a beautiful vista of floral arrangements, woods and calming décor in which to enjoy one’s meal. In addition to the atmosphere of a luxury liner, the staff were both professional and perfectly familiar, in the friendliest way (a rare feat), which made my guest feel welcomed and cocooned from the outside world.
To say each dish was made with skill, care and thoughtfulness would be a criminal injustice to the quality of taste and sensory experience we enjoyed. From a roasted Maine lobster served with scallion creama, rye cracker and champagne sauce to a Black Angus beef tenderloin with a saffron-fennel marmalade, strega and ginger emulsion, each dish highlighted the quality and freshness of each ingredient, while each ingredient was in harmonious balance with the other. The beef, in particular, was cooked to rare perfection.
One of the standout dishes for us was the Australian lamb rack in hay stack. Here it was served with Castle Valley Mill’s polenta, black truffle coulis and sauce barigoule. I love a properly cooked lamb, and this was one of the best I’ve ever had. The barnyard flavor of the hay and the creaminess of the polenta matched well, and who doesn’t love black truffle coulis? Dessert and wine were excellent additions to the meal. The wine, especially, was carefully paired for maximum tasting pleasure.
Having received 3 stars from the New York Times, it is no wonder that on the night we ate, the room was packed. Go for a special occasion or just because you’re a glutton (or, to put it more diplomatically, a gourmand) and see for yourself the wonders and excellence of Gabriel Kreuther.
41 W 42nd St.
New York, NY 10036